(1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture
( 3 ounces of 2 stroke oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6
ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe
damage to your engine). NOTE: Never use 100:1 as recommended by some
manufacturers. It will cause your engine to "die" prematurely. The only
lubrication that your engine gets, is from the oil that is mixed with
the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe.
(2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1
mixture (5 ounces per gallon) and SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture
(13 ounces per gallon).
(3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the
crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran
your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK.
(4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screw drivers (blade and
phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination
wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive
out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a can of Gumout
carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark
plugs (pre gapped) in case yours became fouled, new gas filter if your
gas line has one, a long magnet (in case you drop a nut or bolt), and a
small flashlight. AVOID using starting fluid because it contains ether
(bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter
pins (for most motors less than 35 hp.).
(5) For small outboards under 40 hp, keep the clamp handle screws
greased so that they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt.
(6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering
cable every time you go out in salt water to avoid the cable from "
seizing up" and causing a costly repair.
(7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber".
(8) Flushing your outboard for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will
prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in
saltwater. Use a barrel, or a hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or
any other device made for your motor.
(9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up
truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift
handle by rolling. Try to cushion the motor with something like thick
foam rubber.
(10) Check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any
blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause
vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower
unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (approx cost $40)
(11) Spray a thin coat of WD-40 all around the powerhead of your
outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect
it from rust and salt deposits.
(12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull chord for signs of
wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull chord when you are out fishing.
(13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged
batteries. Sometimes your outboard charging system fails to work and it
may discharge the battery if it produces less than 12 volts. You can
easily test it with a voltmeter while it is running .
(14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35 hp, attach a short
chain,cable, or heavy rope (tied to your outboard and transom of your
boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard.
(15) In the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine,
put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might
send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be
difficult to locate a replacement.
(16) For all outboards, always be aware of the heat of your engine by
watching the temp gauge (if you have one) or watching the "pisser". Most
engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check to see if steam
is coming out with or without the water. If that happens, shut off the
engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of your engine to see if
you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking
your water intake. If you do not find anything, you might have a bad
impeller or bad water pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if
possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or
call "vessel assist". If you do not have "vessel assist insurance", it
will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above it is best to change
your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard
frequently,occasionally,or just once in 2 yrs. It is the time more than
the wear that ruins the impeller.
(17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain
plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill
with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to
make a check list and review it before you launch. (also keep a spare
drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one
gets "lost".)
(18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor
on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you
to drop the your motor while you are mounting it.
(19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to
your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra
gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your tank.
(20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines,
you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case
your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter
or battery fails. Practice starting your motor with the emergency rope
so you will know what to do if such an event happens.
(21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller, after
several times of use, to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects
there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the
lower unit to leak and take in water. (a costly repair).
(22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you
choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. If you have
stale gas, we can get rid of it for you at no charge.
(23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the
transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing
because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a
TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and
transfers it to the trailer. (cost about $75, can save you thousands)..
(24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark
brown or black in color. If you do not know how to check it I will be
happy to instruct you on the phone. Water or coffee- n-cream color in
the oil indicates a lower seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK
as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually.
(25) For outboards up to 35 hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try
adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in
the air it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or
(you possibly have the wrong length lower unit) One remedy is to install
"WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a
greater lift in the rear. (cost about $35).
(26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each
wheel. Its purpose is to keep the wheel bearings greased and to prevent
any water from entering the bearing zone when you launch or remove your
boat from the water. Keep it full of grease (using a grease gun) and
pump in some extra grease almost every time you go out. Without BEARING
BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are
trailering and you might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer,
drop your boat off the trailer onto the road or worse. Bearing Buddys
cost about $15 to $20 a pair and are easy to put on. They can be found
at any boat shop or automotive parts place. You will also need a
standard grease gun and some "cartridges" of grease (that fit into the
grease gun).
(27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for
long periods of time (3 months or more), you can expect the lower unit's
housing to begin to disintegrate ("dissolve"). If you cannot keep the
lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to
the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of
anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop.
(28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE
on all the bolts that you remove and replace to prevent rust and salt
build-up on those bolts.
(29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only
prevents problems, but also allows you or your mechanic to grease
everything that is removed and replaced so that those bolts will come
out easily "without breaking" in the future.
NOTE: If you go longer than 2 years without service, some engines will
have their driveshaft and crankshaft rust together making it impossible
to remove the lower unit. When this happens you will have to replace
your motor because nobody will be able to repair this condition at a
reasonable cost. This happens often with Mercury motors but will also
happen with other brands, but less frequently.
(30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble,
get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy
that it gave you a warning.
(31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank fitting that "snaps"
into your engine fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes
bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine
will stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20.
(32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who
relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that
you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way.
Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO
fails. If you choose to use your VRO, add some oil to your gas like 100
to 1 (1.3 ounces oil per gallon of gas) in case your VRO fails. You
might be running a little rich, but it could save your engine. You might
have to change your spark plugs more often. Don't take our word for
this suggestion, ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions.
(33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard,
because it overstresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your
maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the
end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This
should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last
longer.
(34) For outboards that use portable gas tanks ( 2-12 gallons), it is
wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank.(an aluminum tank is
hard to find). The reason for using an aluminum or plastic tank is
because it will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your filter
or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should also keep the
plastic gas tank away from the direct rays of the sun by covering it
with a mat or placing it below a seat on your boat. This will also
prevent rain water from seeping into the tank. Direct sunlight will
cause your plastic gas tank to become brittle and crack. You should
replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. Cost about
$15 - $20 at Wal-Mart, up to $75 elsewhere. NOTE: because of the recent
surge in the price of oil and gas, every store has raised the price of
their plastic gas tanks to approx. double of what they were.
(35) Never store your outboard upside down or it may seize from the
water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing rust. It is
best to store it in a vertical position.
(36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor
out of fuel before you take the motor off your boat. The reason is to
prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the
carpet in you car or trunk when you lie the motor down.
(37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat,
make sure that a MARINE silicone is used to coat the bolts and fill the
mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent
water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from
rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time, if
water gets to it.
(38) For all outboards, never run your engine dry (without water). It
will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute if you run it dry.
You might not realize this, and when the next time you go out boating or
fishing your engine may overheat.
(39) For all trailerable boats, It is wise to attach a safety chain from
the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch,
in case the pulling strap (or rope) suddenly breaks. Over time the sun
may dry it out and make it brittle. If that happens,the safety chain
will prevent your boat from falling off the trailer while in transit.
(40) For all outboards, If you change the gear oil be certain that when
you replace the oil screws that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or
composition) washer to prevent oil from leaking out, and water from
leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is
OK. replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: Do not replace with
an ordinary "O" ring made of rubber or neoprene. It will surely fail.
(41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw
with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose
steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a
problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic drain screw
$8.00 at any boat shop.
(42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or
from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not
"ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Because slowly shifting into
forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly
repairs.
(43) For all sailboats that have outboard motors, be certain that your
outboard does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. To
remedy this situation, you should lower the engine mount (if possible),
or get an outboard with a longer shaft. If your outboard continues to
pick-up out of the water, the impeller may fail causing the outboard to
overheat.
(44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the
same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home or longer
increases the chances that you will forget to add oil. Running your
outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very
costly error).
(45) For small 4 stroke outboards, when transporting your outboard off
the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical
position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to
the manufacturer's instructions. If you are not the first owner of the
outboard, find out which way it must lie. Lying it down on the wrong
side will cause the engine oil to run out.This will leave a mess of oil
where the outboard is positioned and may bring the oil in the crankcase
down to a dangerous level. Always check the oil level using the dipstick
before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine needs oil, you
can use any standard automotive oil. NOTE:(2 stroke outboards may be
stored in any position except upside-down.)
(46) To tell if a boat leaks,without going to a lake or ocean, use a
hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out
the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where
to repair it.
(47) Be smart: Do not lend your outboard motor or boat (with a motor) to
"anyone". If you do, don't be surprised by the problems your outboard
will suddenly have when it is returned. I know this sounds harsh, but it
is realistic.
(48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, Remove the drain
plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole
periodically to remove leaves,dirt,etc. Be sure to replace the drain
plug before you go boating.
(49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short
distance without a spare tire (or 2 spare tires). if you get a flat tire
and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating
day. I recommend two spare tires because in the event that you use your
spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. You will also
need a jack and a lug wrench that fits the trailer's lug nuts. If you
already have what you need, be sure to grease the lug nuts that hold the
spare that is fastened to your trailer because they usually become
rusty making the spare difficult to remove. NOTE: Some people carry the 1
or 2 spare tires in their trunk. (not a bad idea, because it prevents
weathering of the spare tire)
(50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12v tire inflator that
plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches directly to your car
battery. If your trailer tires are low on air pressure they could
possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12v tire inflator will take a few
minutes to restore the required tire pressure recommended (etched on the
tire) by the manufacturer. You can purchase one at any camping supply
store including Walmart. Approx. cost $15 - $25 NOTE: make sure that the
tire inflator has enough wire to reach all your tires.
(51) It is wise to make a checklist of all the things that you will need
when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write
it on a some stiff thick paper so it will not crumble and can be used
repeatedly and the list added to as needed.
(52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but will not run
in forward, or reverse, it might be a broken shear pin, or a faulty
propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad
until you eliminate those 3 items. If you are not sure how to eliminate
them, give me a call and I will walk you through them. (AT NO CHARGE).
(53) For all outboards. Check all hoses especially those that carry
gasoline. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and/or
deteriorates most hoses. They become brittle and can suddenly break, or
they often develop a crack at the fittings (near the fuel pump or gas
tank) causing at worst, a dangerous leak, or at least a loss of power.
Before you take your boat to the water check all hoses to see if they
are still pliable by shaking them with your fingers. If you are not
sure, it would be wise to change them annually to prevent problems.
(cost of hoses approx. $2 - $4.) They can be purchased at any auto parts
shop. Bring a sample with you.
NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not all. I
hope that I might have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad
day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add it to the next
post. Perhaps you should make a copy of the 53 tips as a reminder.
Greg Moore 1220 Rosecrans St. #939 San Diego Ca. 92106
